J. Kenji López-Alt - I met up with Adam Ragusea and we ate tamales
Kenji and Adam engage in a conversation about tamales, exploring their cultural background and preparation methods. They discuss how tamales are made from nixtamalized cornmeal, typically with added lard, wrapped in corn husks, and steamed. The conversation touches on the versatility of tamales as a dish, comparing them to European wheat-based foods in terms of culinary evolution. Adam shares his thoughts on the texture of tamales, particularly the mealiness, and how it can be mitigated by using enough lard or cheese. They also discuss the best methods for reheating tamales, with steaming being preferred over microwaving. Additionally, Kenji mentions his involvement in a pizza operation, highlighting the unique dough preparation that includes old doughnut dough, which reheats better in a microwave than an air fryer. The discussion concludes with reflections on the importance of learning to enjoy different foods to enhance life experiences.
Key Points:
- Tamales are made from nixtamalized cornmeal, lard, and fillings, wrapped in corn husks and steamed.
- The texture of tamales can be improved by using enough lard or cheese to reduce mealiness.
- Steaming is the best method to reheat tamales, preserving their texture better than microwaving.
- Kenji is involved in a pizza operation using a unique dough that includes old doughnut dough.
- Learning to enjoy a variety of foods can enhance life experiences and social situations.
Details:
1. 🎤 Introduction and Tamale Discussion
- Kenji visited Adam Ragusea in Knoxville and brought tamales from Good Golly Tamale.
- Adam Ragusea expressed skepticism about tamales but was open to trying these specific ones.
- There is an appreciation for tamales often sourced from informal vendors, such as from the trunks of cars.
- The discussion highlights a culinary blend or cultural experience referred to as "where south meets south of the border."
- Tamales are not only a food item but a cultural bridge, representing the blending of Southern U.S. and Mexican culinary traditions.
- This discussion sets the stage for exploring culinary diversity and openness to new experiences.
2. 🌽 What is a Tamale?
- Tamales are made from nixtamalized cornmeal, similar to what is used for tortillas, but with added lard or fat.
- The mixture is placed inside a corn husk along with a filling, then wrapped and steamed.
- Tamales offer a versatile flavor profile, acting as a blank canvas for various fillings.
- Tamales hold cultural significance in many Latin American countries and are often associated with celebrations and festivals.
- There are numerous regional variations of tamales, including different fillings and methods of preparation, such as sweet tamales or those wrapped in banana leaves instead of corn husks.
3. 🌾 Historical and Cultural Context of Tamales
- European cuisine is historically centered around wheat, leading to innovations in recipes to prevent monotony, such as noodles and dumplings.
- Tamales, originating from Mesoamerican cultures, represent a similar culinary evolution, adapting maize into diverse forms.
- Both culinary traditions emphasize innovation: Europeans with wheat and Mesoamericans with maize, highlighting cultural adaptability.
- Tamales showcase cultural integration, combining indigenous ingredients with techniques introduced through colonization, reflecting historical convergence.
4. 🍽️ Tamale Evolution and Convenience
4.1. Historical Evolution of Tamales
4.2. Modern Convenience of Tamales
5. 🌽 Texture and Reheating Tamales
- Adding cheese to tamales can improve texture by reducing mealiness, as cheese floods through the grains.
- Older tamales tend to become mealy, but sufficient lard or cheese can counteract this by making them creamier.
- Corn starch in tamales retrogrades more than wheat as it cools, causing them to stale faster, so reheating is crucial to maintain freshness.
- Effective reheating methods include steaming or microwaving, which help restore the tamale's original moisture and texture.
6. 🍕 Pizza Experiments and Reheating Methods
- Steaming is the most effective method for reheating tamales, with microwaving as a secondary option.
- A new small pizza operation is being launched in Knoxville in collaboration with Status Dough, initially at the Farragut location, featuring a unique dough recipe.
- The pizza dough incorporates 20% of old Status Dough yeast doughnut dough as a starter, enhancing texture and flavor.
- The inclusion of fats and eggs from the doughnut dough affects the chewiness of the pizza dough.
- Microwave reheating of pizza proved more effective than using an air fryer in a recent experiment.
- The pizza style is Chicago-inspired, aligning with the background of one of the partners.
7. 🍕 Pizza Style and Dough Discussion
- Tavern-style Chicago pizza is characterized by a thin crust, square cut on a round pie, and edge-to-edge toppings.
- The dough consists of 20% old dough, water, and flour, emphasizing the importance of using dough at the right age.
- Experimentation with dough curing involves leaving rolled out dough in a walk-in for a day or two, making it pliable and reducing hydration for a crispier texture.
- Cured dough facilitates easier handling for home cooks, minimizing sticking issues, and results in a cracker-like, light crust.
8. 🥗 Tamale Tasting and Personal Preferences
- Tamales became a part of the speaker's diet after moving to California, showcasing the impact of regional cuisine on personal food choices.
- The speaker's purchase of tamales from parking lots illustrates cultural integration and the acceptance of local food practices.
- Dietary preferences are discussed, with considerations on carb intake, as seen in the speaker's debate over the necessity of foods like tamales and pumpkin muffins.
- The conversation encourages expanding one's palate to enjoy a wider variety of foods, promoting a versatile approach to eating.
- The discussion concludes with an emphasis on gratitude for hospitality and the communal experience of sharing food, highlighting the social importance of food sharing.
9. 👋 Farewell and Closing Remarks
- Focus on inclusive language: The farewell uses inclusive language, addressing 'guys, gals, and non-binary pals', which can improve audience engagement by ensuring everyone feels acknowledged.
- Personal connection: The speaker mentions meeting 'in person', highlighting the importance of personal connections in professional settings.
- Future engagement: The speaker indicates future interactions ('I will see you next time'), suggesting ongoing engagement and relationship building.