Cambridge University - Pepys' Guilty Pleasure
The speaker, a PhD student named Marlo, discusses her research on elite 17th-century fashion using various sources, including the diaries and collections of Samuel Pepys at Magdalene College, Cambridge. Pepys' collection includes fashion prints from the late 1600s, showcasing French aristocratic styles. These prints served as guides to the latest fashions and were sometimes colored by Pepys' lover. Marlo highlights specific fashion items, such as a French evening ensemble for men and a woman's city apparel, emphasizing the elaborate details and trims.
Pepys' diaries provide a detailed account of his life from 1660 to 1669, revealing his interest in fashion and his anxieties about dressing appropriately for his social status. As the son of a tailor and a rising civil servant, Pepys was concerned about dressing above his station. An example from his diary describes his hesitation to wear a new suit with gold lace, which he eventually altered after a colleague's comment. The video also touches on the cultural influence of French fashion in England and its association with moral concerns. Marlo concludes by noting that Pepys' personal anxieties about fashion reflect universal human emotions.
Key Points:
- Samuel Pepys' diaries and collections offer insights into 17th-century fashion and societal norms.
- Pepys collected fashion prints depicting French aristocratic styles, used as fashion guides.
- His diaries reveal personal anxieties about dressing appropriately for his social status.
- French fashion was culturally influential but morally controversial in 17th-century England.
- Pepys' experiences highlight universal human emotions and societal pressures.
Details:
1. đ Discovering 17th Century Diaries
- The diarist was concerned with personal appearance, asking questions like 'How do I look?' and 'Is this one better?'
- These concerns reflect the everyday worries of the diarist, showing a personal side often not highlighted in historical accounts.
- The collection of these diaries is housed at Magdalene College, Cambridge, providing firsthand insights into the figures of that era.
- These diaries are crucial for understanding the social and cultural norms of the 17th century, offering a window into the daily lives and personal thoughts of individuals from that time.
2. đ Researching Elite Fashion
- The researcher studies 17th-century elite fashion by utilizing an array of sources including manuscripts, printed material, and visual sources.
- Fashion prints, which were key to the research process, led to the exploration of Magdalene College and the Pepys Library.
- The research focuses on elite fashion from the 17th century, highlighting a specialized niche area of study.
- In-depth analysis of these sources provides insights into the fashion trends and cultural context of the time.
- The researcher employs both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze historical fashion, enhancing the understanding of elite fashion dynamics.
3. đ Fashion Trends of the 17th Century
- The Habits de France and Modes de Paris volumes, collected by Pepys between 1670 and the 1690s, contain 100 illustrations of French aristocrats showcasing the latest fashions.
- These volumes served multiple purposes: they could be displayed, used as guides to current styles, or simply admired.
- Men's fashion included French evening ensembles with fashionably frizzed periwigs, lace shirts, cloaks, and ribbon loops on breeches.
- Women's fashion involved city apparel with elaborate lace trims, colored prints, painted fans, face patches, ribbon loops in hair, lace veils, and layers of detail.
- Fashion trends were influenced by the French aristocracy and served as a reflection of social status and cultural norms of the time.
- Men's fashion was characterized by opulence and a keen attention to detail, signaling wealth and power.
- Women's fashion emphasized elegance and sophistication, often incorporating multiple layers and accessories to denote status.
4. đ Samuel Pepys: A Valuable Historical Resource
- Samuel Pepys' diary offers an incredibly detailed account of his life from 1660 to 1669, providing insights into the social and political events of the time, as well as his personal activities and emotions.
- Despite ending in 1669, Pepys' diary remains a crucial resource for understanding 17th-century England, documenting events like the Great Fire of London and the Second Dutch War.
- The diary's abrupt ending leaves a gap in firsthand accounts of Pepys' later life, which researchers attempt to bridge by examining related historical documents and prints.
- Visiting libraries to view prints related to Pepys helps researchers gain insights into his continued interest in fashion and lifestyle, offering clues about his activities and social status after 1669.
- Modern historians rely on the diary to analyze societal norms, personal interactions, and political dynamics of the Restoration period, making it an indispensable tool for historical research.
5. đ€ Pepys' Fashion Anxieties
- Samuel Pepys experienced significant anxiety about his clothing choices, often recording these concerns in his diary.
- Despite being the son of a tailor and advancing in the civil service, he was worried about dressing above his social station.
- Pepys documented receiving a distinctive summer suit with gold lace sleeves and cuffs, which caused him apprehension about wearing it in public.
- A colleague advised Pepys to remove the ornate sleeves, prompting him to return to the tailor to have them altered, illustrating his sensitivity to social perceptions.
6. đ«đ· French Influence on English Fashion
- France was considered to have cultural supremacy over clothing, impacting the English economy and moral values.
- French costume was associated with Catholicism, viewed as vain and extravagant by English standards.
- Adopting French fashion was a display of cosmopolitan consumer prowess, but overindulgence risked moral condemnation.
- Specific fashion elements like lace collars, silk fabrics, and elaborate wigs were adopted from French styles.
- The English aristocracy's adoption of French fashion indicated their wealth and social status.
- The adoption of French fashion led to debates in English society about national identity and morality.
- French fashion houses set trends that were closely followed by English designers, influencing local fashion industry practices.
7. đ„ Relating Past to Present
- Historians caution against anachronism, the practice of projecting modern emotions onto historical figures. This is crucial for understanding the context of past events and personalities accurately.
- Research in the Pepys Library reveals Samuel Pepys as a deeply human figure, sharing many of today's common anxieties and emotions, such as fear of loss and desire for social acceptance. This demonstrates how despite the passage of time, fundamental human emotions remain constant.